3 July 2006, After the changing of the guard at the palace, (Prince Albert was there, because the flag was flying) we drove to Beausoleil to have lunch at Julio's uncle's restaurant. Maria joined us for a wonderful Portuguese lunch. She ordered a wonderful clam dish with a heavenly sauce. Yes, I shared it. I had the cod fish, rice and a salad. We drank Portuguese wine. We said goodbye to Maria and Julio drove us across the boarder to Italy and Sanremo. Above is a picture of the train station in Sanremo. If you wanted to, you could take the train from Menton, and then walk a short way to the beach. Sumi spotted the Russian Orthodox Church, and we made our way up the hill to visit it. It was quite beautiful and was filled with icons. The day was very warm and humid, so we walked back down to the beach at Sanremo and sat down at a beach front restaurant for a gelato. After, I walked down to stick my feet in the Mediterranean before we headed back to the villa. The next day we were taking the early train back to Paris.

Monday, 2 July 2006. Wonderful Julio drove Sumi and I to Monaco and glamorous Monte Carlo the capital. (I took this picture at the top of the road leading down to the principality). Monaco is truly a beautiful place. We had so little time, so I requested the Japanese Garden, the changing of the guards and the Basilica to visit the grave site of Princess Grace and Prince Rainer. (on the right, Julio and me on the beach in Monte Carol taken by Sumi and her disposible French camera).

Sandwiched between the built-up quarters of Monte Carolo, Larvotto and the Mediterranean, the Japanese garden is a piece of paradise. It was blessed by a Shinto high priest; it is quite and cool in the tropical humidity experienced at this time of the year. Driving through the town on the way the Palace we noticed that the orange trees (in the main town) on the sidewalks had oranges on them. By the way, citrus fruit groves flourish in this part of the world. (Sumi took another great shot of the yachts in the Monte Carlo harbor). At the top is the Basillica where Princess Grace was married to Prince Ranier and where they have their graves. Her tombstone is on the western side of the catherdral choir. It is inscribed with the Latin words Gratia Patricia Principis Rainerii II and is heavily adorned with flowers. The remains of other members of the royal family buired in the church crypt since 1885, today rest behind Princess 'grace's grave. I noticed a banner above one of the pews that honored Martin Luther King. It was very moving.

Sunday, 2 July 2006 Sumi and I visited the beach in Menton. We had a wonderful Italian lunch with Phillipe's sister, father and mother. Menton is reputed to be one the warmest spots on the Cote-d-Azur. It is only a few kilometers from the Italian border, and it is popular with the older holiday makers. The owner of the restaurant brought out the large bottle of "grappa".

Saturday, 1 July, 2006 Sumi and I were greeted at the train station in Menton by Julio. Were we delighted to see him. This was such an adventure for us. When we disembarked at Nice the train schedule flashed track nine for connecting train to Menton. Wrong. We made it down a lot of stairs with all of our luggage and onto the train. Well after five minutes we noticed we were the only ones on board. Lucky for us the station master came by and got us on the right train that was just leaving. Julio drove us through the town of Menton, and up, up, up winding roads (room for one vehicle at a time) to the wonderful villa. Mimi and Phillipe had invited us to this breath-taking retreat. Unfortunately, they were both away on business, but Julio and his lovely wife Maria made us welcome and comfortable. We both loved just walking in the garden. The three dogs, Texas, Carmel and Pouflipou, and five donkeys entertained us. The views from the corniche down to the Mediterranean were spectacular as well as the view of the highway leading to Italy. A string of mountain villages peer down, and just south of the the top of the pass, we could see Castillon (population 280). Castillon is considered a model of modern rural planning. The village was destroyed by an earthquake in 1887, then bombed in 1944. It was built anew in 1951, perched on the mountain slopes in true Provencial fashion.

Friday, 30th of June. We checked out of our hotel and took a taxi to Gare de Lyon. We were three hours early, because we wanted to make sure we wouldn't get bumped. Anne-Marie met us there and we decided to experience dining a Le Train Bleu. I was certain in fact, because my daughter Liz goes there quite often when she is in Paris on business, and she had described it's beauty to me many times. Well, everything Liz said was true. The experience really brought you back to a bygone era. We had our tickets, now we kept watching the board to light up with Paris to Nice. It didn't happen. Finally, Sumi asked this man who looked like he worked there what was up. We were supposed to be at the other end of the station on the yellow side. Off we ran, and dear petite Anne-Marie was running with us and carrying my bag (I had too much stuff, and I mailed some home from Menton). We made it. The sleeper was not what we expected. It was regular upholstered seats. Everyone settled down and went to sleep. Sumi wanted to move to where no one was sitting so she could lay down, but I discouraged her. Those seats stayed empty all the way to Nice. It was so funny to watch us trying to find the next train to Menton. But we did and an hour later we had arrived.

Thursday evening Sumi and I met Anne-Marie in front of Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Pres. We were going to hear the Voix d'Hommes de Corse, du Pays Basque et de Russie sing. We had some time so we walked to find a nice French restaurant. On the way Anne-Marie pointed out Eglise St. Sulpice. She said that there is a sign in the church that reads "It is not here". We found a nice restaurant and made a reservation to come back in an hour. It was a pleasant dinner. We sat outside to eat and watched the people in the neighborhood coming and going.

Christian met us at the church in time for the concert. Saint Germain-des-Press is a Romaneque Church consecrated on 21 April 1163. It was built on the site of a 6th century abbey, and was the dominant chuch in Paris until Notre Dame was built. It has been altered many times, but the chapel de St. Symphorien, to the right as you enter, ws part of the original abbey and is the final resting place of St. Germanus (AD496-576), the first bishop of Paris. The Merovingian kings were buried here during the 6th and 7th centuries, but their tombs disappeared during the Revolution. The Belfry is the oldest in Paris. It is a solid square tower, begun at the beginning of the 11th century. Entrance: It has a 17th century porch. After the portal was damaged in the 17th century, an arched narthex was constructed. The modern door opening into the church is wrought iron; Nave: Romaneque 11th century nave with five bays, separted from the side-aisles by square pillars leading to four imbedded columns, crowned by illustrated capitals which clearly show the strong but temperate art of early romanesque sculpture (copies of the originals may be found at the Cluny museum). Descartes is one of the persons buried there. The Men's Basque and Russian Choruses gave a lovely program. The church was full. After the concert we made a dash to find a taxi again. What fun.

Thursday, 29 June 2006 Sumi and I took the No. 27 to the old Opera House, Le Palais Garnier. We didn't take the tour, but roamed around by ourselves. It was built on the orders of Napoleon III as part of the great Parisian reconstruction project carried out by Baron Haussmann. The project for an opera house was put out to competion and was won by Charles Garnier, an unknown 35-year-old architect. Building work, which lasted fifteen years, from 1860 (the year my grandfather Boust was born) to 1875. When it first opened people would buy tickets to anything that was playing, it didn't matter what, because the interior was so beautiful that it was the show. Afterwards, we found a great Japanese restaurant for lunch.

Wednesday, 28 June, 2006 We visted the Palais du Louvre. It was Sumi's first visit and she went wild with her camera. These are my photos. I hope to scan some of her pictures later. Tons of people on this visit. We visted the Mona Lisa, and the Egyptian portion. We ate lunch in one of the restaurants under M. Pei's Grande Pyramide.

30th June already. I had wanted to visit the Jardin Du Luxembourg, and I was sure that Sumi would love it too. We hopped on the No. 27 and we were there in less than a half hour from our hotel in the 5th Arrondissement. Here is a picture of the palace which now houses the Senate. By the way, I'm using my son Phillip's Minolta camera to take the pictures. On the left is a picture of Sumi on the entrance to the garden. They had just had a festival and the gravel is blue and the hedges are bamboo. The Fountain de'Medices in the Luxembourg gardens is pictured at the top, and to the left is a close-up of the same. There were benches all around the Fountain, and every one was filled with people . . . Some couples, businessmen reading the papers, little ladies with their grandchildren. Paris is so civilized.

Opera Bastille: Christian and Anne-Marie treated us to "The Damnation of Faust", Berlioz, on Wednesday evening. The supertitles were in French. The designer (a Japanese guy, I'll get his name later) used computer images superimposed on a screen (in lieu of huge sets) and the principal singers, opera chorus and dancers were viewed in this wonderful imagery. It was delightful . . . For example, when Faust jumped off of the boat to commit sucide, his image was seen floating down and bubbles coming up . . . you would just have to have been there. Superb production, great hall, accoustics. Great seats 5th row, stage right. While searching for the designer's name on the internet I found this old review of the opera . . ."In the 1960's, at the Palais Garnier, the Opéra had Maurice Bejart stage this work, with ballet as an integral part of action. Here they employed the very creative Canadian stage designer Robert Lapage. With designer Carl Fillion, he used the full forces of the team at the Bastille to create stunning visual images that were carefully calibrated to fit with the action and music. Treating the proscenium like a 16/9 format television screen, he divided it into grids to provide repeated images of often stunning impact. Employing dancers, climbing acrobats, extras and filmed images to fill the squares, the scenes fit well with the music and were, except for some merely decorative moments, a significant artistic achievement, as well as fine theatre. The size and complexity of this production, with its incumbent costs, might discourage companies less blessed with resources, both financial and technical. "

After, we all walked to find a restaurant nearby. After dinner, we needed to find a taxi to take us all home. One of the things I love doing with Anne-Marie and Christian, and we did it in 2001, is the search for a taxi late at night . . . it is always an adventure, and I love running through the streets of Paris with them.

Tuesday, 27 June we made a date to meet Anne-Marie out side of Ste. Chapelle at 5:45pm. We took the No. 27 bus from our hotel and it stopped just across the street. The Holy Chapel, the most exquisite of Paris' gothic monuments, is tucked away within the walls of the Palais de Justice (Law Courts). The walls of the upper chapel are sheer curtains of richly coloured and finely detailed stained glass. Best to see in the day light when the sun is streaming in. The Ste. Chapelle was consecrated in 1248. It was conceived by Louis IX to house his personal collection of holy relics. (now housed in Notre Dame) We were there to attend a concert. Orchestre Les Violons de France. The tallest spire shown on the left is the tip of Ste. Chapple. The gold gates are the entrance to the Palais de Justice. One of the many stained glass windows is shown at the top.

Anne-Marie arrived and we had time to find cafe for an aperitif before the concert. Christian had to work late so he couldn't join us for the concert. After the performance, that included Mozart, both the Gounod & Schubert Ave Maria with a soprano and mezzo soloists, and Albinoni's Adagio, we walked to El Palenque to meet Christian who had taken the train from his office in Versailles, for some Argentinean food. The restaurant is close to the Parthenon, 5 rue de la Montagne Ste. Genevieve. It is a tiny restaurant decorated in the style of Argentina with leather saddles, chaps and other gaucho implements. The specialty is beef, and the meat is noted as being especially tender. Another fine meal in Paris.

We returned to Paris on Sunday, 25th of June and Carol "Sumi" and I checked into our hotel on rue Pascal. Monday morning we explored the Rue Mouffetard (two blocks away) and Sumi immediately got addicted to a pastry shop and its beautiful to look at goodies located at the top of the Mouf . . . Sumi went back there every day like church until we left for Menton on Friday, 30th of June. My favorite was the Jambon and cheese on French bread. The salads in France were incredible, some with fresh cheese, and the last one I had in Paris, on a very warm and humid evening, had a fried egg on top. Monday afternoon we met Anne-Marie at the Musee de Cluny and headed for the Pont-Neuf and the Seine River excursion. I hadn't taken the cruise in 2001, in part because I saw the barges loaded with tourists, and I didn't want to be part of that. Wrong. It was wonderful. In particular, because on our cruise the sky suddenly darkened and rain clouds gathered and then little droplets fell on us. It made the views of Paris even more romantic with the billowy clouds, etc. The docent pointed out all of the historic sites and spoke to us in English and then French. What she didn't tell us, Anne-Marie filled in. The three of us then made our way on foot over to 17 rue des Carmes Paris 5 to L'eglise Saint-Ephrem le Syrique de Paris (Eglise Catholique des Chretiens d'Orient) where Mathieu Lamboley was giving a recital: Chopin Quatere Impromptus, Ballade n 1; Valse en la mineur; Valse en fa mineur, and Ravel, Oiseeaux tristes et alborada del gracioso. The church itself is Italian architecture the original chapel was 1334. The mass is said in Aramaic (the language that Christ spoke). The church was remodled in 1733 and again in 1794.

Another look at this famous Mouf. There are wonderful displays of fresh produce, cheeses, meats, a laundry, super market, post office and other shops and restuarants. There are several pharmacies, bakeries and yes, a Starbucks. To the far right is a picture taken by Sumi of "her bakery".

Street scene on rue Mouffetard near our hotel. ".

Entrance to Chambord. A view of the village from the castle entrance. Sumi, Anne-Marie and Jaynet after lunch in the Lodge.

The famous double stairs in Chambord.

Anne-Marie and Christian in the window of the Chambord Castle.

We visted Le Clos Luce in Amboise, Leonardo De Vinci's last residence. Unfortunately, the tour had closed, so we visted the gift shop and viewed the rose garden.

Murder and Conspiracy
Probably the most famous event at Blois and the one that is recreated today for tourists is the murder of the Duc de Guise.
Henry III, the son of Henry II and Catherine de’ Medici, was king during the Wars of Religion when the Catholic monarchy struggled for power against the Huguenots. A transvestite who wore makeup and dressed in gowns and jewelry, Henry was a weak ruler, mocked throughout France. His mother, Catherine de’ Medici, assumed most of the political power. Today’s tourists can see the 237 secret cabinets, which opened by stepping on a hidden lever, where Catherine kept her personal papers, jewels and a collection of poisons. Catherine and Henry instigated the St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, which began in Paris and spread throughout France, resulting in the death of some 70,000 Protestants.
The head of the Catholic League, Henry de Guise was everything the people of France admired, chivalrous and brave, the opposite of the French king. A power struggle between the three Henry's - the king, Henry de Guise, and the Protestant Henry of Navarre - led to the assassination of de Guise at Blois in 1588. Summoned to see the king’s, Henry de Guise walked across the courtyard, up the famous staircase, and upon entering Henry III’s bedchamber was stabbed by eight of the king’s men. The murder only further provoked the Catholics and in a siege of Paris, Henry III was murdered. The Protestant Henry of Navarre, married to the king’s sister, then became Henry IV and moved the court from Blois to Paris.
In the 17th century Louis XIII’s brother, Gaston d’Orleans, was exiled to Blois for various conspiracies against the king. As successor to the throne, he was given funds to build a great palace, but when the king had a son, Gaston lost his place in line and the palace was never completed. The Gaston d’Orleans Wing, designed by François Mansart, illustrates a transition from the Renaissance style to the newer, more sober, French Classical.

We had a lovely lunch at Le St. Michel. During the hunting season, hunters provide game from the adjacent woods. 103 pl. St-Michel, Chambord, France. The village of Chambord is as tiny as its château is massive. Its leading landmark is this historic hotel, a revamped country house set at the edge of the woods across the lawn from the château. Guest rooms once boasted fabled views of the palace but towering oak trees now block the view from all but two. No matter -- this is a most enjoyable hotel, with a cozy lobby, solidly bourgeois guest rooms, and a 19th-century-flavored restaurant. Adorned with mounted deer heads, majolica serving platters, and thick curtains, this room has ambiance to spare. The fare is local, hearty (including deer pâté, pike-perch with fennel, and game in the fall), attractively priced, and there's a pleasant café-terrace facing the château -- just the place for reflection while sipping a drink. 39 rooms, 25 with bath, 13 with shower. Restaurant, tennis court, some pets allowed (fee); no a/c. MC, V. Closed mid-Nov.-mid-Dec. Full breakfast.

Sunday morning Christian drove to the bakery in Tours to bring us fresh crousants for breakfast at his mother's apartment. Anne-Marie, Christian, Sumi and I left our suitcases and Christian drove us ten miles east of Blois to Chambord.

It was about 9:30pm reservation and the staff was so gracious and accomodating eventhough it had been a long day for them. I wish I could remember the exact meal . . . too much was happening. I do remember that it was incredible and fresh and the wine was superb. In fact every meal we had in France was so beautifully presented and so fresh, especially the salads and cheeses. Left to right: Christian's cousin, her daughter, Anne-Marie, Christian's brother, his cousin's husband (he is originally from Laos) me, Sumi, Christian and his mom.

Saturday night Sumi and I were invited to join Christian's family just outside of Blois to celebrate his cousin and her daughter's birthdays. This meant a lot to us. What a beautiful family his cousin has. She and her husband are nurses in a small village of about 8,000 and I understand that they go to see people who can't make it to see them. They have two wonderful children, ages 13 and 9. We loved their beautiful home that they had been restoring themselves. The living room had beautiful provencial style with an immense wooden beam in the ceiling. Their cats were beautiful and contented too. However, one cat attacked Christian, or played too rough with him, and we think it is because of his beard. Left to right: The son, Sumi, Christian, Christian's mom, the cousin and her daughter.

Chaumont. In the 10th Century, Eudes I, Count of Blois, establised a fortress to protect Blois from the constant attacks by Foulques Nerra, Count of Anjou. The Norman knight Gelduin was given Chaumont and had the fortres strengthened. Catherine de Medicis bought Chaumont in 1560 and forced Diane de Poitieerrs (her husband's mistress) to accept it in exchange for the castle Chenonceau. In the 19th century the chateau belonged sucessively to the Count of Aramon, to Viscount Walsh then, from 1875, to Marie Charlotte Say, the Say sugar producers heiress, who married Prince Amadee de Broglie in the same year. In 1938, the chateau was handed over to the State by the ruined Princess. This is a condensed history. It is my understanding that Christian's father first came to the castle as a young man to repair furniture.